Suit problems aren’t always apparent when you walk into the store and try on a suit for the first time. It may even feel comfortable at first, but once all the buttons are in place, the sleeves are hanging properly, and you take a look in the mirror, that’s when something starting feeling off.
Maybe the sleeves fall to an awkward length. Maybe the jacket feels tight when you raise your arms, or maybe the armpit area is looking bunched up. You can’t always explain it, but you know it doesn’t look the way you expected.
That’s a common problem we see all the time. And it’s important to understand this early on: the issue is not your body. A suit can look great on the hanger or on a mannequin, but that doesn’t mean it will automatically sit right on you. Most suits are made to fit a general shape, not your exact build.
This is why partnering with a local tailor makes things easier. Instead of guessing, you get something that actually fits you.
Below are the most common suit fit problems we see with men every day. And more importantly, what can actually be done to fix them.
1. The shoulders don’t sit right
One of the first things that can throw off a suit is the shoulder fit. If the shoulders are off, the entire jacket loses its shape. It’s also one of the main areas we look at, because it sets the foundation for everything else.
When the shoulders are too wide it can look bulky and unstructured. You can clearly tell and feel that the suit isn’t sitting naturally on your body. It looks more like the jacket is wearing you, not the other way around.
When the shoulders are too small, you’ll feel it as soon as you move. It feels tight or restrictive, especially when you move. Over time, this becomes uncomfortable and makes the jacket harder to wear throughout the day.
Tip: Try lifting your arms or reaching forward. It is normal to feel some resistance and the sleeves may pull up a bit, but you should not feel like you are about to burst through your suit. If so, this is a sign the shoulders on your suit are not the right fit.
What can be done:
- The shoulders are a foundational part of your suit for a good fit so we recommend trying a different size or a cut that actually sits right on your shoulders. The rest of your suit can be tailored around it.
- If the shoulder fits, but there is still a small roll, this can be corrected with an alteration called “lowering the collar.”
Note: Shoulders are one of the hardest areas to adjust, so if they don’t fit from the start, it’s usually not worth trying to fix them with tailoring.
2. The jacket collar is loose
The collar plays a big role in how a suit looks, especially from the side and back. If it’s not sitting right, it can easily throw off the entire look. Even though it’s a small detail, people notice it when they see you from behind. It can make the whole suit look less polished, and even if you’ve invested in a well-made piece, it can still fail to sit the way it was intended. It’s a more common suit problem than most men think, especially since it’s difficult to notice for yourself how your collar may be sitting against the back of your neck.
But how do you know if your collar is sitting right?
Check the collar from the side and back. If there’s a big space between your jacket collar and your shirt collar, it means your suit is too large through the shoulders and upper back.
You may even see some bunching or folding of fabric on the back panel, right behind your neck. This is a sign the jacket isn’t following your natural posture, so it starts to fold instead of laying clean.
What can be done:
- Consider getting it tailored. In many cases, minor adjustments can help. A collar roll can often be improved by adjusting the shoulder slope.
- If the issue is more noticeable, it’s better to try a different size or cut that sits clean from the start.
3. The jacket strains when you button it
Sometimes a jacket can button, but still not fit properly.
If you see lines pulling from the button across your chest, it usually means the jacket is too tight. That’s not the intentional “slim look” that many men are looking for, it’s just too tight. You may also notice the lapels lifting away from your chest instead of laying flat. This usually becomes more noticeable when you sit down or move your arms.
What can be done:
- Don’t size down just to get a slimmer look, it usually works against you. Go up a size to allow enough room through your chest.
- Once the fit feels right, the waist can be adjusted to refine the shape into a proper slim fit.
4. Jacket is not the right length
Jacket length plays a bigger role than most people think. This is one of those details that people don’t always notice right away, but it affects the overall balance of your look. It can throw off your proportions, even if the rest of the suit fits well.
What you’re looking for is a suit that covers your behind, but not so long that it starts to look oversized. A jacket that drops too far and covers more than it should can make you look shorter and feel a bit oversized.
An easy way to check is to let your arms hang naturally. If the bottom of the jacket lines up around your thumb or the middle of your hand, it’s about right.
What can be done:
- Significant length adjustments are difficult with tailoring. Size up the suit, and if it still doesn’t feel right, consider whether tailoring or custom is the better option.
5. Trousers bunch over your shoes
How your trousers sit can also affect the overall look more than most people realize. A lot of the time, the issue shows up in how your pants sit on your shoes and around your hips. Even if the jacket fits well, poorly fitting trousers can throw off the entire outfit.
If the fabric stacks too much on top of your shoes, your legs look shorter. Ideally you want the pants to fall neatly over your shoes, not bunch up at your ankles. This is one of the easiest things to adjust, but it can make a big difference.
Another thing to check is your pockets. If they start to flare out to the sides, that’s usually a sign the pants are too tight through the hips or thighs. The trousers might button up, but you can still tell that they don’t fit properly.
What can be done:
- Your tailor can adjust the length so the pants sit neatly on your shoes without bunching up.
- Choose a size or cut that gives you more room through the hips and thighs.
- Make sure the pants sit nicely on your legs first, then adjust the small details.
Let us fix your suit problems.
Most suit problems we encounter come from starting with the wrong suit size or fit. While tailoring can help you refine your fit, there are some limitations on where we can and can’t help. This is particularly relevant if your suit problems are coming from a suit that’s too small, because the garment leaves no extra fabric for a tailor to work with.
When the foundation is right, everything else becomes easier. And when a suit fits properly, you don’t need to think about it. It just feels right.
If you’re looking for the right suit foundation for your build, visit Eastern Clothing and we’ll help you find the right fit.